How To Install Vinyl Windows Without Flange 4,3/5 3609 reviews
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to re-install and seal windows without a flange? These were replacement windows that were installed 10 years ago and the flange had been removed to facilitate installation into the existing opening. JELD-WEN® Best Series 30-1/4' W x 62' H Vinyl Double Hung Window. Built without a nailing flange to allow easy installation using your original window.
I personally don’t like them at all. I don’t work with Euro brands, so I usually get to choose flange or no flange. I think flashing them is difficult to impossible to do correctly, and relies on caulking far too much. And getting them in the frame plumb and square is more difficult when you’re working alone. When I’m installing windows in a remodel situation, if the previous builder ran the siding all the way to the window frame, I’ll just cut it back a little more than the width of the flange, and then fill it in with a strip of plywood, over the flange.
I don’t like siding run like that any way, and I never do it that way in new construction. I’ll install the windows first, then trim, then butt the siding to the trim. I guess siding and trim details should have been a separate thread, but the two topics do kind of go together. Your thoughts? Almost all commercial windows are flangless.
They also have weep systems integrated into the frames and use much better sealant then normal resi caulks. We just had 6 windows replaced on ajob using aluminum frames without flanges. It was a brick exterior with resi style framing. It is a nice way to replace that type of window if it is done correctly.
But most commercial jobs don’t have to deal with wood structure’s. Mostly it’s block or steal. Not that it’s cheap to fix leaks. Just a different approach. What brand of window you using on that new build. Almost all commercial windows are flangless.
They also have weep systems integrated into the frames and use much better sealant then normal resi caulks. We just had 6 windows replaced on ajob using aluminum frames without flanges. It was a brick exterior with resi style framing.
It is a nice way to replace that type of window if it is done correctly. But most commercial jobs don’t have to deal with wood structure’s. Mostly it’s block or steal.
Not that it’s cheap to fix leaks. Just a different approach. What brand of window you using on that new build.
True but they still have to be installed properly to shed water. We will be using Andersen 400 series windows on our new build. Plaxis professional 8.6 crack.
The only time I’ve used flangless windows was on an old home with a stucco facade. The “trim” was a painted band around the window opening and the window itself was inset into the opening. The walls were block with a stud wall on the interior (around 12″ thick or so), being that the windows were set about 3″ back from the edge of the stucco, a flange wasn’t an option. Yeah, I guess stucco is a good place for flangeless. I shudder just thinking about remodel work on a wood-framed stucco building.
Then you’re really relying on sealant, and a failure would more than likely be disastrous. The only time I’ve used flangless windows was on an old home with a stucco facade. The “trim” was a painted band around the window opening and the window itself was inset into the opening. The walls were block with a stud wall on the interior (around 12″ thick or so), being that the windows were set about 3″ back from the edge of the stucco, a flange wasn’t an option. Yeah, I guess stucco is a good place for flangeless. I shudder just thinking about remodel work on a wood-framed stucco building.